Convergent Journey

A cuppa tea and a camera

Posts from the ‘Around Londontown’ category

This Old Soul Misses London

Oxfam on Drury Lane. Courtesy of Google, which has changed its format such that I can't figure out whom to credit this photo to. Sneaky Googles.

Oxfam on Drury Lane. Courtesy of Google, which has changed its format such that I can’t figure out whom to credit this photo to. Sneaky Googles.

I used to go to the Oxfam store near Holborn at least once a week to browse the well-stocked bookshelves. Perhaps given its proximity to LSE and Kings College, there were quite a lot of literary classics and heady academic tomes tucked among the trashy romance novels here. Every time I entered, I could hardly resist buying a book or two, despite knowing how foolish it was to buy books that I definitely wasn’t going to bring back home. But the books were a steal at £2-5, so I figured it was worth it even if I gave the books away later.

Stack o' books

Stack o’ books, somewhat visible at left

I ended up with a tall stack of used books on the windowsill. I’d curl up by the window with a cup of tea and crack one open; or I’d haul it on one of my weekend trips to read on planes and trains. There was something exciting to me about opening the well-worn binding and reading the pages someone had read before. While engrossed in a John le Carré novel, I wondered whether the previous reader had been as gripped by the claustrophobia of Cold War espionage. It may seem silly, but I was honestly thankful to the book donors for granting me access to a fictional world by passing the book on. Which also made it easier for me to give the books away when I was done.

I must be all the more nostalgic right now because I’m heading back to Europe on Wednesday. I’m currently pre-loading my Kindle with reading for the flight, but I’m finding it hard to reconcile my old-soul love of literature as a shared experience with this new digital form…. especially given the price tag. I have to pay $9.99 for The Spy Who Came in from the Cold? To get it downloaded onto my Kindle via something Amazon calls… Whispernet??

The name, I’m not such a fan of. It underscores the problem I have with the Kindle to begin with, which is that the digital reading experience feels… wispy. Ethereal. The words disintegrate every time you turn the page, as if they were never there. It’s odd; unnerving, almost.

Ah, well. Welcome to the 21st Century! This is how we do. Convenience trumps all: I have five e-books locked and loaded on this slim slice of a device, and I don’t need to worry about dumping cargo on the return trip.

Paris, Italy, Spain–here I come! This blog will be quiet for a while, but you can bet there will be updates when I’m back.

About these ads
9 Comments

Toesocks! And other Travel Tips

Toesocks to prevent blisters. Shoes with soles that actually provide buffer from those cobblestone ridges. How to be kind to your feet without looking like a dorky American tourist in high-top sneakers and mid-calf socks. Satisfy the oft-incompatible criteria of sensibility and fashion sense.

Advice from tour guides in Europe–for whom walking well is essentially their livelihood–tells you all this and more in The New York Times‘ article, ”Shoes the Pros Use.”

Basically, this is the best thing about to happen to my summer travel wardrobe. No longer do I have to sacrifice style for comfort! Well, not that I ever did when traveling. I definitely was that dorky, unapologetic American tourist squeaking around town in my sneakers.

Grates

These sneaks traveled all over Europe.

These heeled sandals gave me blisters.

Montmartre, Paris

These boots battered the cobblestone until the heels collapsed.

windy

Oh yeah, and that’s me in my sneaks in Vienna, faceplanted by the wind into my map.

Time to do some online shopping! Read more @The New York Times.

4 Comments

The London Review Cake Shop

I have a confession.

To start, let me explain that a primary reason I enjoy blogging is because I am a maven, according to The Tipping Point‘s classification. Which is not to say that I’m an expert in any particular field, but more that I dash about like an eager little squirrel looking for the choicest bits of information on what to see, or where to get tomorrow’s meal. And I love to share those acorns with anyone who’s interested.

London Review Cake Shop

But I’ve been a furtive, selfish squirrel when it comes to the London Review Cake Shop, my absolute favorite cafe in London. I didn’t even take proper photos of it because I fully intended to not share this information.

Why? you may ask.

London Review Cake Shop

Because it is small. And so special. And the masses should not come to crowd its five tables or drain its supply of fluffy baked goods and delightful teas.

Because I spent so many afternoons there with a pot of tea to help me conquer a stack of reading, or to make catching up with a friend the more cozy.

Because they never rush you out, no matter how long you’ve been there or how long others may wait.

Because it’s attached to a bookshop!

Because it was my special place, with an intangible ambience that made it mine to many, yet entirely mine.

Because it is London’s best kept secret–and now you, too, are bound to secrecy!

{ For better photos and a lovely review, see Mondomulia’s post }

4 Comments

NYC vs. London: Settling the Score

Almost every British person I met in London told me they wanted to move to New York. But why?

As I always say, it’s a love-hate relationship when it comes to NYC. There are things to love, and things to hate, and not much in between. So when I actually have to live here, the balance fluctuates from day to day, but for visitors it’s just love-love-love.

Come to think of it, that may partly explain why I loved London so much–because I always approached it as a visitor, somewhat. Even though I was there for a year, I always knew my time there would be finite. So I woke up each day thinking I ought to make the most of it.

But I digress.

If you were counting, London totally killed NYC while I was abroad, racking up lots of awesomeness points: tea and scones, accessibility to the rest of Europe, free museums, pretty buildings, lots of parks, ginormous roses, the literary legacy. But coming back to NYC I’m reminded of a lot of reasons why NYC > London, too.

NYC+1KOREAN FOOD. This, friends. THIS is what I’m talking about. A spread like that should count for 300 points at least.

Remember when I went to that Korean BBQ place in London where we had to pay for kimchi separately, and even pay for the lettuce to wrap our BBQ in? So wrong. Because this is how we do in America. Bro, Mom and I went to Geum Gang San in Flushing, where all of the above banchan dishes were served free of charge, with refills to our hearts’ content.

I got the deonjang + LA galbi special. Mmmmm how I have missed you so!

I can’t tell you how stuffed I was after this meal. No really. I refuse to describe it. Just thinking about it is making me feel fat right now.

NYC+2: Subways with air conditioning! Thank goodness too, cuz that heat wave was no joke.

NYC+3: Weekend brunch.

You know, I think from now on when people ask me what’s good about American food, I will simply say: BRUNCH.

I went with M to Nook in Hell’s Kitchen, where we split sweet (French toast) and savory (eggs benedict with smoked salmon)–a happy marriage!

NYC+4: There’s always something new to discover, no matter how long you’ve been around. 

Walking into Grand Central station, P stopped me at a point where I’d stood hundreds of times–the busy entrance at Vanderbilt and E 42nd. She pointed up, and there it was: a breathtakingly, quintessentially New York cityscape that I’d never noticed before!

NYC+5: Sushi.

Granted, there was good sushi in London too. But NYC sushi wins. Sorry, London.

I’m forgetting the name of the restaurant we went to, and for some reason the word that comes to mind is “tamagachi,” which is clearly wrong. I remember the restaurant was pretty hard to find, as it was sort of tucked away behind Drom, a dive bar in the Lower East Side. With these clues I could definitely Google it pretty quickly. And I will. But for now, tamagachi is taking me back to middle school and I kinda like it.

 

NYC+6: Can’t beat the quirky.

K and I walked the full length of the High Line, which is one of my favorite places in NYC. It’s an old railroad track converted into a public space, an oasis amid a busy city. But the best part of the High Line is that the neighborhood it’s located in has a lot of character, and the neighbors inject an extra energy and quirky flair.

In one eye-level window, a life-size cardboard cutout with a hairy chest waves at passersby. On one rooftop, a “zoo” (when K mentioned this, I expected real animals!)

NYC+7: Levain Bakery. This needs no explanation. Just eat it.

And then there was cookie.

Is “Thus Spake Zarastrutha” playing in your head right now? Because it should be. Humor me:

NYC+8+9+10+11908741: Delicious food, cheap & delicious food, food-food-food-food-FOOD!

 

Eataly with D&K–pasta perfectly al dente. Prosperity Dumpling–all of the above for $3!

Celeste in NYC, previously my fave Italian spot in NYC. Eataly was better, though.

Coffee and a bagel. Can’t beat NYC for making this combo just right.

 

Just look at those skies.

It truly is a beautiful city–when you’re looking up.

Look down and you’ll see the rats burrowing in trash cans… I saw a man sit on a dead cockroach on the subway because he didn’t look down first. Also there was a guy smoking a joint and saying really vulgar stuff on the subway. And another dude playing with a torch lighter. And…

In sum, if you want to love NYC, don’t live there.

Okay, okay. A friend of mine pointed out that only three of these reasons are not food-related. So two more:

Friends. Hardly needs to be said, as I’m not exactly going to go eat alone, am I? Oh shoot there I go with the food again.

Accessibility. In one day, I’d meet a friend from brunch on the Upper West Side, walk cross-town through Central Park, run errands near Union Square, get dinner on the Lower East Side, and come back up to Hell’s Kitchen for drinks. Pick up dumplings from Chinatown and chow down in Koreatown (oops, is that a faux pas?). And especially since the subway runs all night–party on!

5 Comments

London Bucket List

I’m starting to do that thing where I’m falling so far behind on updates, it’s getting overwhelming. Or maybe it’s because I don’t feel quite ready to wrap up an incredible year abroad.

During the year that I was in London, I accrued a fairly long and random bucket list of places to see and things to do. Before I knew it, I only had two weeks left! And by then, it was time to graduate, and pack up, and close bank accounts, and do a final trip around Switzerland…. so I didn’t get to cross everything off the list. All the more reason to go back at the first opportunity!

LONDON BUCKET LIST

Imperial War Museum
St. Christopher Street
Tate Modern
National Gallery
Primrose Hill
Courtauld Gallery
Sir John Soane Museum
British Museum
British Library
Camden Lock & Camden Market
Columbia Road Flower Market
Hampstead & Hampstead Heath
Greenwich & Royal Observatory
Olympic Village
White Cliffs of Dover
Oxford and/or Cambridge

The Imperial War Museum

The Imperial War Museum was completely overwhelming, from the moment you walk in to the weight that lingers on your mind long after you leave. There is just so much stuff housed here–and it’s all so heavy. Weapons, uniforms, propaganda posters, ration cards, civilian artefacts. The Holocaust exhibit was especially harrowing, and I ran out of time before I could see the genocide exhibit. Truth be told though, it probably would have been too much to handle in one day.

Tate Modern

To my surprise, I really enjoyed my visit to the Tate Modern. I’ve passed by it so many times, and even been inside the building several times, without visiting the free exhibits. You see, my experience of modern art has been less than positive because a lot of the time I don’t understand it, and it’s often curated without enough explanation. I attribute it to a certain snobbery–you’re either in the know, or you’re out. And so especially when it costs $20 for a visit to the MoMA in NYC, you don’t want to pay up just to feel small.

But the Tate was great; there’s a permanent free exhibit, and it’s very obviously curated for the general public, perhaps especially students. The lengthy descriptions of each piece that explain the work, the artist, the context in which he/she worked… all very helpful. In short, the Tate made modern art feel accessible for the first time, and I really appreciated the experience.

I guess this is an uplifting way to remind people to count their blessings? Or maybe slightly judgmental, depending on how you read it.

And after consuming a little art, it was also of course necessary to consume tea and scones at the Tate Cafe!

St. Christopher’s Place

St. Christopher’s Place is a teeny tiny little alleyway that I often passed by while taking the bus down Oxford St. From the main street, you can barely even see what you’ll find after you wedge through the narrow entrance between the buildings. I was always so curious!

It’s a revived area, through a recent redevelopment project, to bring boutique shopping and dining to a once-dead street practically hidden from view.

Now it bustles and brims with color and activity. Well done.

The British Museum

Check out that cloudy haze behind the building. ALL OF JULY WAS LIKE THIS IN LONDON. Ugh.

I love London’s free national museums. It does mean that the museums are incredibly crowded, but making art and history accessible to the public is a tradition that I really admire. I won’t get all political about you know how all the artifacts in this museum came to be here…

The Rosetta Stone. On the right, pieces of an enormous marble statue with a disproportionately powerful fist. Cuz that’s how pharaohs roll.

Cuneiform! And Assyrian carvings depicting a royal lion hunt. They’re so dynamic, the arrows look like they’re really in flight.

Elgin Marbles.

Olympic gold! Oo la laa..

Touristy Things with Mom

These weren’t on the bucket list, but I went back to these places with Mom while she was visiting in London:

Buckingham Palace

St. James’ Park

Tower of London / Tower Bridge

We also went to the National Gallery in Trafalgar Square–twice! The place is so massive, and so many masters all in a row. I love Impressionism especially, so I spent a good long while with Monet, Degas, Renoir, Pissarro, Manet… and on to Van Gogh, Toulouse-Latrec…. dreamy. I should have stopped by here at least once a week… or, truly, at least once a month. Regret!!! Someday, I’ll be back.

Public art in Trafalgar Square (and everywhere)

If I’d had more time, I would have done a photo series on the fun public art that popped up all around London in preparation for the Olympics. Especially popular were the souped up phone booth creations in wacky shapes, colors and forms. Here in Trafalgar Square is one that looks like Big Ben, and one that looks like the hideous Olympic mascot.

The London Eye

I’ve seen it many times, but only ridden it once! Hello, London.

Neal’s Yard

A splash of color tucked deep in a hidden alleyway. Love this place.

Greenwich

Well well, lots of goings-on in Greenwich. A graduation was taking place at the Old Royal Naval College, so we just barely got a glimpse of the Painted Hall (above left). But the saddest part of this trip was that, because they were building the gymnastics stadiums out here, we couldn’t go to the Royal Observatory! Major fail. I totally wanted to go and straddle the Prime Meridian Line!

From an exhibit on British trade at the Maritime Museum. This interactive display had textiles and patterns from Britain (left) and Asia (right). A little placard asks which you prefer. To which all I have to say is, thank goodness for trade with Asia! Or the British would just be wearing the dullest clothing ever.

Horatio Nelson everywhere. Above left, at the Maritime Museum, the carefully preserved uniform he was wearing when he died. Above right, his statue in front of the Trafalgar Tavern.

Well, so the fancy part at the Royal Observatory is closed, but we still got to see the Prime Meridian. Though the irony of how GB decided to dictate world time but doesn’t itself adhere to it kind of cracks me up. Imagine living in that house on the corner? Every time you cross the line, you’d have to switch time zones. Whack!

A fine way to say bon voyage to England, and set off on my journey back home.

Goodbye, London! I’ll be back before you know it–still got more than half my bucket list to attend to!

3 Comments